FAQs about Pest Control

All of the common Pest Control Questions Answered

Frequently asked Questions (FAQ)

Below are a selection of questions and answers that Catchers Pest Control get asked. However we can only cover so much on the website. If you have any question regarding our Pest Control Service then please do not hesitate to contact us and we will advise you accordingly.

When a mole is killed, will I get more?

There is a relatively high risk of another mole appearing in the majority of gardens and lawns that I visit. However some properties will not have another mole for years. Then one will suddenly turn up when you could very much do without it, like just after laying some turf! Your location and surrounding mole population is the main deciding factor to the increased likelihood of another mole.

Moles being territorial to a degree, will not normally invade another mole’s feeding area unless the occupant of that area has been removed. If a mole is trapped and removed other moles nearby will be able to sense this and may move in if the feeding is good. If the whole area has been trapped well and other moles have also been removed then it can be a year or so before the area gets badly infested again.

You can also be unfortunate enough to have a main run passing through your garden, either at a depth or a shallow tunnel along a perimeter fence or hedge. Here many moles will be using the same tunnel and 5 or more moles can be caught in less than a week.Usually all activity then stops.

In periods of drought and prolonged dry spells like this earlier this year, moles may concentrate in areas that are retaining moisture. If you have a water feature, a soakaway, or a natural spring in your garden and all surrounding ditches and water sources are empty, you will have a steady procession of moles coming just for water. I’ve cleared many a farmers’ field of moles this year by having a trap in an adjacent domestic garden that has a source of water.

How do you kill the moles in my land?

Many molecatchers swear by one type and swear at another. From meeting and talking to many molecatchers over the years I have come to the conclusion that a molecatchers preference of trap stems from what they were taught to use or learnt to use years ago. Most find it difficult to adapt to using another style of trap, stating they cannot catch moles with other types.

Also the type of ground in the area a molecatcher normally catches will have a bearing on the type of trap that they use.I use 3 types of mole trap for good reason, so I can catch moles anywhere, in any soil type and any weather condition.

1. Duffus half-barrel mole trap. Widely available, though there are some terrible, cheap and flimsy imported versions about. Perhaps the most common trap used by professional molecatchers. Light weight to carry, able to catch two moles at once, good for all types of mole run, deep and shallow. Can be difficult to set correctly for new molecatchers and reported to be prone to getting filled with soil by some, but that is operator error and not a trap design fault. Works well everywhere with perhaps the exception of loose soils, but this can be overcome if you know to use them properly.

2. Talpex mole trap. Not freely available, expensive, bulky and heavy but stackable. Exceptionally strong spring making them difficult and dangerous for people with weak or small hands to set, but the most humane mole trap to date. Suitable for all depths of tunnel. Good for wet conditions and loose soils. Not the best trap to use in very hard ground.

3. Scissor mole trap, often call pincher mole trap. This is what most people think of when a mole trap is mentioned. You can pick them up in most garden shops, DIY centres etc. Unfortunately a lot of them are rubbish, with the main concern being weak springs. Even the best scissor traps lag behind the previous two to terms of a humane kill. This trap tends to restrain and squeeze a mole rather than kill it outright. Death can be over a period of hours with weak traps, NOT GOOD. This trap is a favourite of farmers and amateur molecatchers, probably because it is the easiest of all the traps to set. They are bulky and heavy; generally only good for shallow runs, and lets everyone know you have put a trap down with the two arms stuck up in the air. At least you can see from a distance if the trap has gone off (and so can any one else passing by).

So as you can see there is no trap that is 100% perfect in all conditions, though the Duffus trap comes closest. Any molecatcher just using one type of trap is putting them selves at a disadvantage if they are trapping for a living. If you only go molecatching when the conditions suit your choice of trap, then this is not an issue. Recently I have seen two completely new styles of mole trap; I’ve not tried them yet, but from the pictures have noticed design flaws in both of them making them only suitable for one type of tunnel and soil condition. The designers must think that molecatchers work in a controlled working environment, where there are no other variable factors to take into account.

What should I look for in a pest control company?

While there are hundreds of pest management professionals to choose from, they are not all the same. It is important to do some homework to ensure that the pest control provider you choose can handle your pest problem. Start by asking the following questions:

Does the company have a good reputation?
Do they specialize in commercial pest control?
Are they knowledgeable about my business and the unique challenges we face regarding pest control?
Do they have a thorough training program?
Do they guarantee their work?
Are they financially sound so they can back up their guarantee?
Are they licensed?
Are their employees security screened?
Are they knowledgeable about the regulatory issues in my business pertaining to pest control, sanitation and related issues?

What evidence might I see if rats are on my property?

You would likely see burrows, droppings, holes, and/or runways. Burrows are holes in dirt or concrete from one to four inches wide, with smooth edges. They can be found under bushes and plants and along foundations or walls. Droppings are often found close to garbage; if they are moist and dark it is a sign that rats are active in the area. Holes and gnaw marks might be seen on plastic barrels. Runways are paths create by rats from constant back and forth movement that are dark, greasy track marks.All evidence of vermin.  PHONE CATCHERS PEST CONTROL

How do i identify Chafer Grubs

Common Chafer Grubs are white grubs with a brown head, not unlike Vine Weevil grubs but with distinct pairs of legs at the front end. Note that common chafer grubs only reach 20mm in length. They are about the thickness of a matchstick. If you see something twice this length it is probably a cock chafer. Cock chafer are not susceptible to nematode treatment being tougher, and having a longer life cycle. However it is the common chafer which is the one commonly found in lawns.

What damage do Chafer Grub cause?

Chafer Bug larvae can cause devastating damage to lawns. Some of the damage is caused by the grubs chewing at the roots of the grass, but much of it is caused by birds and animals scratching away at the soil searching for the juicy grubs.